Architectural design

Floor plan of the large stone house

The large stone ground floor house of 45.2 sq.m. is developed in plan L and consists of a living room, a kitchen, two bedrooms and a bathroom. On the north east side of the house, the bright living area with the built-in open kitchen have unobstructed view of the sea and the natural landscape. To the south, adjacent to the living room, the south pergola delivers a covered patio, which hosts the open air dining area. The two bedrooms and a bathroom are located on the west side of the house. The master bedroom opens to a second outdoor terrace covered with a seed trellis on the south side of the house. This second open-plan seating area is formed of the exterior stone wall that protects the buildings from the strong north winds. 

Big stone house plans

Sun path diagrams with shadow ranges throughout the year

During the design process of the two houses, the Tinos Ecolodge team used sun simulation programs on the plot in order to better understand the impact of the sun in relation to their project and its surrounding context. The sun path is a visual representation of the sun’s range movement across the sky at the specific geographic location of their project, on the outskirts of Tinos Island. Four specific months have been chosen to show the sun path and the shadow area changing process, January, April, June and August.

Annual sun path and shadow range of the small stone house through the year

Calculation of daylight factor levels

Variant: North window moved to west corner. two skylights 60X60 cm, one on the bedroom and one on the livingroom. Time:14.:00

The daylight levels inside the houses where simulated in the design process, that helped position the windows and skylights to the desired positions in order to archive optimal lighting condions. The daylight factor is the most commonly used performance indicator for the evaluation and specification of daylight conditions in buildings. It evaluates the amount and distribution of diffuse light in the building in relation to the amount of diffuse light available outside under cloudy sky conditions, and is expressed as a percentage. Daylight factor levels are determined on a plan view and at 3D sections.

Construction progress 

(clockwise from left) Foundation of the small stone house. Basic infrastructure is placed in the foundation such as wastewater, fresh water and electricity.  (next image) Construction process of cistern. The cistern required to store the rainwater throughout the summer. Cistern 240sqm of hard surface collects around 100,000L of rainwater for 6-8 people and for irrigating the gardens. (last image) Concrete slab that form the ground floor of the small stone house.

Construction process of the big stone house. Empty pipes are directly installed in the floors and walls so electricity wiring is prepared and it is now invisible on the finished wall.

(clockwise from left) The stone masons worked in teams of 2, one on the outside wall and the other on the inside. The stone wall has a thickness of 50 cm . Between the outer and inner sides of the wall, there is a filling of smaller untreated stones and mortar.(next image) Stone masonry started at the small house. 30% of the stones are extracted from the plot excavation and used in building the walls. The rest came from a local quarry. (last image) Placed single irregular stones lintels across the top of the doors and windows.

Construction process of wooden ceiling which is insulated with 5cm Dow insulation (Extruded polystyrene insulation/ XPS). The concrete slab was poured/ cast over the insulation layer.

(left image) Applying cement mortar on the terraces and on the inner floor of the houses and. Warm, earthy cementitious colors were chosen for lining floors (interior and exterior), terraces and built-in furniture in the kitchen and bathroom. (right image) Construction of a masonry kitchen counter-top.

(clockwise from left) The frames were made from custom-made local carpenter. In the large wooden windows, German mechanisms were installed to close the openings as tightly as possible. The frames were placed in the middle of the stone wall in order to limit the sunlight you absorb from the wooden frame and better protection from rainwater. Double energy glass panels were placed by filling the gap with argon gas and a low-emission coating (Low-e). (next two images) Construction process of the wooden pergola with reeds. Reed shading provides relief from harsh rays while still allowing for a cooling breeze to pass through.

We like to thank Nick Bedau for the information,
photos and plans he provided us. More articles
about Tinos Ecolodge and their expansion will be coming soon.

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Tinos Ecolodge is far away from centralised networks for power, water, waste and waste water. These circumstances combined with the owners’ philosophy for a better, ecological, economical and sustainable solution, has resulted in the selection, design and implementation of off-grid infrastructures. As a result, these lodges achieve maximum comfort with as little energy as possible and with a low environmental footprint.

On the east side of the beautiful Greek island of Tinos, just before the beautiful beach of Santa Margarita, lies Tinos Ecolodge a ecofriendly tourist destination. These lodges promise to get people out of their daily routines, offer relaxasion and healthy living in touch with nature. The wild forested with oak trees agricultural plot offers a stream with big plane trees and riverside vegetation which makes this place very green and wild. The view to the sea in front and to the islands of Mykonos and Ikaria completes the picture and the magnificence of nature at its best.

The arrangement of the two residences on the sloping plot offers magnificent and panoramic views
of the landscape and Aegean sea.

The two stone-built lodges are perfectly integrated into the natural environment, inspired by the traditional houses of Greek islands and build with natural stone and wood as the material of choice. However, the materials of these traditional buildings have been reinterpreted creating a thermally efficient contemporary architecture, combining functionality and finesse. Also the exploitation of the extraordinary potential of the plot in terms of orientation, slope and view was a basic pursuit of the design of the dwellings. 

Sustainable design

The following solutions are implemented in Tinos Ecolodge:

• use of renewable energy resources, photovoltaic system and wind generators, to product electric power
• rain water collection and storage in a 100,000L cistern
• waste water treatment
• composting human manure
• use of treated waste water for non-edible plants and trees
• filter the waste water by Reed-bed system for sewage treatment and reuse for garden irrigation
• natural light design and solar thermal design
• use of high quality wooden frames and energy glazing
• natural ventilation
• shading the yards with reeds
• built completely out of local stone, from local stone masons using the traditional technique that has been preserved on Tinos

Two stone houses

The large house of 45.2 sq.m. is developed in “L” floor plan and the small one with an area of 31.4 sq.m. in rectangular floor plan. The two houses are completely independent, separated by the utility house in the middle terrace and with different orientation, preserving their privacy. Each house consist of an open-plan living room adjacent to kitchen space, a bathroom and two bedrooms in the big house and one in the small one. The kitchen opens to the big terrace in front of the house with garden, built-in sofa and dining table. The exterior stone walls protect the buildings from the strong north winds of the island while forming these gorgeous small terraces – outdoor seating areas.

The installation of windows is mainly to the south and the east for the purpose of natural light and ventilation, while creating visual escapes to the sea, the Acratos and the Cycladic islands. The design of the two houses allows users to enjoy the most of the sun, natural light and view.

Interior design

The interior is comfortable and bright. The carefully curating of the minimalist with traditional touch interior design combines functionality, comfort and high aesthetic, creating a cozy atmosphere. The furniture, floors and paintings are custom made.
The stone surfaces remain visible in-house, while the floors are covered with cast cement mortar in light orange color. The high thermal mass of stone wall combined with wooden frames (windows & doors) results in steady indoor temperature at a relatively constant intermediate level of about 18 ° C.

The minimal style of the master bedroom in combination with the exposed natural stone wall creates a serene and tranquil space that’s perfect for relaxing.

(clockwise from left) The kitchen cabinets are built into plastered countertops. At the left side of the exterior stone wall is a two recess which are used to create storage compartments.
(next image) Rustic wooden open closet in the master bedroom.
(last image) An old wooden window turned into a bathroom mirror.

Thanks to the natural stone features (high heat capacity) and the high thermal mass of the 50 cm thick exterior walls, the houses are well protected from the natural elements and the thermal comfort is maintained throughout the year.

External environment

The relationship between the building and the external environment is particularly important. The garden and the buildings are complementary connected. The two houses are well integrated into the natural environment, because of the layout of the buildings and the courtyards on the contour line (altitude lines) of the hill, the continuity of the natural environment remains unbreakable. The use of local building materials (stone, wood, reeds) combined with the free growth of vegetation on the plot create a sense of continuity of the natural with the built environment.

Tinos-Ecolodge team:

Marilia Kalouli: She studied Rural resources and environmental policy and she worked for environmental projects in many areas, with the aim of promoting ecotourism and conservation. Nowadays, Marilia directs Tinos Ecolodge in partnership with Nicolaos Bedau.  
Nicolas Bedau: He studied Landscape architecture and he works in the field of environmental design and education, while he is the administrator of Tinos Ecolodge.
Ronan Lewis: He works freelance in the rope access industry as a technician and builder.
Rafael Krause: He studied Landscape architecture and he works as an educator with teenagers. 

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The ventilated facade, being on the outside of the structure, functions as a thermal buffer by reducing undesired heat gain during the cooling season, heat loss during the heating season and thermal discomfort due to asymmetric thermal radiation. It also maintains the exterior wall material dry, prevents condensation from forming within the exterior wall and rain water from infiltrating the building structure. These functions are explained in detail below.

It is considered to be the most efficient system to solve general insulation issues in buildings and to eliminate the thermal bridges and condensation problems. It is the ideal system especially for building renovations. It can be constructed in any climate zone, with the only difference in the thickness of thermal insulation that is required, which is depending on the building’s location. 

Investing in ventilated facades you save not just your money by reducing building’s energy consumption that is required for heating and cooling but also because of low maintenance and durability of your building.

The passive insulation air cavity combined with a proper wall insulation system helps save energy. When it is hot outside, this buffer zone behind the cladding system allows the hot air outside to cool off, shielding the interior of the home or structure from the thermal impact. Likewise, in colder climates or when there is cooler weather in any climate, this air space behind the cladding provides the same buffer zone to prevent the transmission of heat gain or loss which creates a more energy efficient building.

How it works?

Ventilated facade is formed by components that are attached to the primary structure of the building. On the building envelope is fastened a thick thermal insulation, a ventilation chamber and cladding system.

Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation reduces heat dissipation in the cold months and heat absorption in the warmer months, helping significantly save money from heating and cooling as well as greatly improves the thermal comfort of your home.

Ventilation Chamber

The air chamber, located between the cladding and the building envelope of the building, creates a natural ventilation by the so-called “chimney/stack effect”. During the heating season, the warmer air rises up through the building’s facade and escapes at the top of the chamber through ventilation openings on the facade cladding while fresh cooler air enters the building’s facade at the base of the chamber. During the cooling season, the chimney effect is reversed, but is typically weaker due to lower temperature differences.

This ventilation openings must be >=20mm and must be left whenever there is an interruption in the face of the facade cladding. To permit air circulation in the ventilated chamber, the air intake and output must be correctly proportioned. This permeability moving air diffuses water steam from the inside out and facilitates the ‘exhaling’ of the facade. Moreover, the air gap maintains the insulation material dry, prevents condensation from forming behind the insulation and rain water from infiltrating the building structure. Air gaps facilitate hygric redistribution and moisture removal by air exchange. 

Cladding system

Cladding system allows the heat absorbed by solar radiation to dissipate through natural ventilation of the air from the chamber. The system is installed on a metal hanging structure / battens  fixed to the frame of the building (building envelope) with layers of insulation.‎ Main function of the external cladding is to protect and insulate the building and to create an air cavity between external environment and the structural wall of the building.‎

Choosing the right material is not an easy task. You need to analyze the properties thoroughly, understand the pros and cons to find which one is more suitable. Be careful, the right choice can take your house to the next level in both form and function or it can reduce its structural integrity, aesthetics and value. 

Let’s explore the benefits of the most well-known cladding materials:

Brick cladding

Brick cladding

Brick cladding is one of the most commonly used cladding materials of the last century. Brick cladding improves the appearance of the building while protecting it from harsh weather. It is preferred over other materials because of the numerous benefits it has on offer. The foremost benefit is durability. Bricks are highly durable, non-toxic, fire resistant and cost efficient. Brick cladding supply premium sound insulation and weatherproofing. This highly thermal efficient material if combined with a proper external wall insulation system proves to be a smart investment. You can save up to 25% on energy bills and is considered low maintenance. It is reusable and recyclable, making it a great building option. Bricks are available in a wide range of colors, finishes and patterns.

Timber cladding

Timber cladding. You can opt for vertical, diagonal, horizontal boards or shingles.

Timber cladding has increased in popularity in recent years as a naturally recyclable material, which  also enhances the appearance of your home and reduces energy consumption for heating and cooling.  It has an excellent sound absorption properties, making your home a more peaceful place. This practical and sustainable external finish is available in a wide variety of wood types, grades and profiles to suit your wall cladding. Canadian western red cedar and Siberian Larch are among the most popular softwoods used today. Sweet chestnut and European oak are two hardwood species which can also be used in timber cladding projects.  

Tile cladding

Whether natural stone, ceramic or porcelain tiles add a certain sense of elegance, purity or timelessness to your home. Choosing a sleek modern designs or opting for a natural textured look, tiles are extremely versatile, incredibly durable, long lasting and easy to maintain. They also act as insulators raising you homes energy efficiency. Tiles come in a variety of colors, finishes, shapes and sizes.

Composite timber cladding

Composite timber cladding

Composite timber cladding is a unique combination of recycled wood and plastic, combining the traditional appearance of wood with the durability of an engineered composite. It is available in a range of colors, widths and styles to suit both contemporary and traditional style homes.

Metal cladding

Aluminium, zinc, stainless steel, corten (pre-weathered steel) and copper are all available in a variety of colors and profiles, offering a contemporary, industrial look to your dwelling. The most common types of metals used as cladding are steel and aluminum. Aluminum is the most corrosion resistant. The durability of metal cladding depends on the type of metals used,  the  building’s exposure  type and the effectiveness of corrosion-protection system. Metal cladding can be attached onto an exterior wall in several ways, such as profiled or composite metal cladding.

Composite metal cladding

This catchy phrase “Build it tight and vent it right” describes two of the basic principles of the nZEB standard (which is  following the strategy of the Passive House). Airtightness and mechanical ventilation are factors that determine the energy performance of a building, offering comfortable, healthy living conditions and making conventional heating – air conditioning systems obsolete.

Build it tight

Air needs an opening or hole to flow through and a driving force to move it. Air leakage occurs when outdoor air enters and indoor air escapes your house uncontrollably and unintended through cracks and openings. Air leakages from indoors to outdoors are known as exfiltration and leakages from outdoors to indoors are known as infiltration. Uncontrolled and unintended air-exchange often cause several building performance problems. Airflow across the building envelop is driven by wind pressures, stack effect, mechanical air handling equipment like fans and furnaces.

A building is airtight only when the entire living space (red line) is enclosed by a continuous waterproof airtight envelope.

Building more air-tight dwelling envelope is having a positive impact on indoor air quality and in home energy costs. In particular, controlling airflow through the building envelope or between units of occupancy is a cost-effective way to reduce heating and cooling costs, improve durability, increase thermal comfort, and create a healthier indoor environment.

A continuous, strong, stiff, durable and air impermeable barrier will stop uncontrolled air flow which may carry water vapor, and become trapped, condense, and create microbial growth issues.

Vent it right

A proper air sealing makes mechanical ventilation essential in a high performance home. Increased airtightness must be matched by an appropriate ventilation system to dilute pollutants, provide fresh unpolluted air, and control cold weather humidity levels. For example, cold, dry winter air would need to be warmed as well as humidified, while hot and humid air would need to be cooled and dehumidified during the warmer months.

The principle behind convenient home ventilation: used air (orange) is continuously being removed from the rooms with high levels of pollution and humidity. Fresh air (light blue) is supplied to the living areas. Good quality air is an important prerequisite for a healthy and comfortable living environment.

The incoming fresh air and the outgoing exhaust air should be balanced. When our homes are airtight, we have the option to bring in the right amount of fresh air, through intentional ventilation, rather than unintentional infiltration (air coming in through uncontrolled gaps or cracks). We can also control exhaust ventilation such as bath fans, range vents, and other exhaust when needed (ie. radon control fans).

Choose a balanced Ventilation Systems 
Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV) or Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV)

A balanced ventilation system injects fresh outdoor air into the home at the same rate as exhausting stale indoor air. The system has 2 fans, one for providing outside air into the building and another one for exhausting the interior air, resulting in roughly balanced airflows. These systems do not significantly affect the pressure of the interior space, if they are designed and installed properly.

In most balanced ventilation systems, heat—and sometimes moisture—are exchanged between the two airstreams, reducing the heating and cooling loads caused by outside air. These systems are known as HRVs (heat recovery ventilators) and ERVs (energy or enthalpy recovery ventilators). A HRVs exchanges heat between the airstreams, while a ERVs exchanges heat as well as moisture so your house won’t be as dry in the winter.

More specific, fresh air coming into the home through an insulated duct that passes through the heat exchanger core where it gets heated up by the outgoing stale air. After it is heated, the fresh air is ducted throughout the home. Stale air is pulled from the home and enters the other side of the core where its heat is given to the fresh air, before it is exhausted from the building via ductwork. In the winter months the incoming cold fresh air passes through the exchange core where is warmed by the outgoing stale air from the warm house. On the flip side during hot weather incoming fresh air is cooled by the exhaust air if the house air is cooler than outside air. It’s important to note that there isn’t any mixing of air. The air from one side cannot mix with the air on the other side. Airborne pollutants being flushed from the house cannot cross contaminate the incoming fresh air. It should be noted that with ERVs there is a possibility the shared moisture could contained some pollutants. Both ERV and HRV units include air filters to keep debris and particles from clogging the core. The filters also clean the fresh air delivered to the home helping reduce impurities (microorganisms, including germ microbes and chemicals) from the air and keeping the home more dust free. They should be checked regularly to keep the system running at peak efficiency.

In a typical HRV or ERV set up the tempered fresh air from the exchanged core is delivered directly to living areas and bedrooms through dedicated supply ducts. The outgoing stale air containing moisture, odors and particles is collected from the bathrooms, kitchen and sometimes utility or laundry room. The return air is ducted to the exchange core where it tempers the incoming fresh air before being exhausted out to the house.  

At its most basic, airtightness aims to eliminate any unintended gaps or cracks in the external fabric of the building, while ventilation focuses on replacing the stale indoor air with fresh outdoor air to meet the occupant’s needs. Today, experts agree that energy costs can be reduced by as much as 30% by sealing the leaks in a home and ensuring that the insulation cannot be bypassed by hot or cold air.

As we know, heat moves from warmer to colder areas. Therefore, on cold days, heat from inside the building seeks to get outside. On warmer days, the opposite occurs. The heat from outside seeks to get inside. Insulating the external walls prevents heat from transferring through the walls thereby significantly optimizing the energy consumption of the building. When the external insulation surrounds the structure, the dew point will occur on the external surface of the wall, thereby eliminating the risk of condensation appearing on the internal surfaces.

In order to understand how external insulation works, we can compare it with a “tea-cozy”. Both function in the same way, a tea cozy is a cover for a teapot that insulates it, keeping the contents warm. External wall insulation works the same way since it is one continuous layer of insulation that has wrapped the whole house. EWI reflects the interior temperature back inside, keeping the room warm or cold, preserving/ maximizing its thermal mass and eliminating thermal bridges (the transfer of heat from the inside to the outside through junctions).

Is external wall insulation an option worth pursuing?

External wall insulation is expensive but effective. Indeed, the initial cost of installing external wall insulation is high, but the benefits are instantly noticeable. It is one of the quickest energy-payback projects you can do, resulting in lower heating and cooling bills. You’ll save from 10% to 50% on heating and cooling bills, depending on where you live, what type of heating system you have, and how much insulation you add.  It is easy to apply external insulation, creating robust structures that are warm, dry and healthy, the benefits are numerous. Some types of external insulation (for example Mineral wool) improve wheatherproofing and sound resistance of the building. Also, EWI works as a barrier which protects the external walls of your home against the influences of weather, expanding their lifespan.

How does external wall insulation work?

External Wall Insulation (EWI) is accomplished by directly applying insulation panels on the external walls of the building before finishing (and covering it) with a rendering system for impact and weather protection. Both solid walls and cavity walls can be insulated externally.

External insulation can be anchored to walls using mechanical fixings (often with plastic heads, as metal conducts heat) or mortar dabs, or a combination of both. Depending on the type of external insulation used, changes to the original wall finishes – as in the case of pebble dash – are sometimes needed to ensure a smooth application. 

Once the external insulation board is applied, finishes are available to create and replicate all sorts of looks, including dash and brick. Those seeking a brick finish have a number of options: renders designed to create an authentic brick effect, synthetic brick slips, or slips cut from real brick.

What is thermal resistance?

The thermal resistance of a material is a measure of how resistant it is to the transfer of heat across it. The thermal resistance of building materials is expressed as the R-value. The higher the R-value, the greater the resistance. All materials have some resistance to heat loss; bust most structural materials such as concrete, aluminum and wood have relatively low R-values. Insulation materials have higher R-values and are designed specifically to reduce the rate of heat loss through the building shell. R-values are determined by material type, thickness, and installed weight per square foot, not by thickness alone. All materials having the same R-value, regardless of type, thickness, or weight, are equal in insulating power.

While the R-value is the measure of resistance to heat flow, the inverse of R-value, called U-value. U-value is a measure of the number of BTUs that will flow through a square foot of the material for each degree Fahrenheit difference in temperature from one side to the other in an hour. (Btu/ft² F hr). A low U-value meaning that only small amounts of heat will pass through, thus keeping your home warmer during the winter months or colder during the summer months for longer. This is the term used in most heat loss calculations. A wall system with a high R-value has a very low U-value because U=1/R. The lower the U-value, the less heat moves through the material.

Which insulation should I use?

The wide variety of insulating materials and finishes available give designers and builders plenty of technical and aesthetic options. Below we list some of the most common external insulation materials: expanded polystyrene (EPS), extruded polystyrene insulation (XPS), mineral wool, phenolic foam (PF) and Wood fibre.

photo source: ewistore.co.uk

Expanded polystyrene (EPS)

Extruded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene (EPS) is the most popular and less expensive insulating material used in exterior insulation systems available on the market at this time.

The white EPS has been the mainstream in external insulation for years and has a thermal conductivity of 0.037 to 0.040 W / mK.

More recently it has been replaced by gray EPS, which is enhanced with graphite and has a higher conductivity value of about 0.031 W / mK. In fact, it means you have the same performance as the white EPS by applying a thinner gray EPS profile.

EPS is easy to install. It is lightweight, easy to cut and durable. It is also water resistant, it can get wet during installation without suffering any loss of thermal value. Because it’s so common, you can get it almost any thickness you want.

It is a flammable material (category E / F), but with the addition of appropriate combustion retarders the material is made up of category B with very low flame spread. Although, it has very reduced sound-insulating properties and therefore cannot be used as a soundproofing insulation.

photo source: passivehouseplus.ie

Extruded polystyrene insulation/ XPS

The production of extruded polystyrene began in the 1940s. The polystyrene foam extrusion process results in a material with uniformly small, closed cells, which give a higher rigid foam, making it highly compressible and having a thermal conductivity of about 0.034 W / mK. XPS has a natural resistance to rain, snow, frost and water vapor, and is an extremely stable material that retains its initial thermal insulation performance and physical integrity in exposed conditions over long durations.

Properly installed XPS boards have a service life comparable with that of the building or structure. The closed cell structure and the treated surface of extruded polystyrene do not retain significant amounts of water so it does not absorb moisture. XPS is widely used in external thermal insulation systems, basements and in the construction of inverted roofs, but has very low sound insulation properties. It is flammable material (category E / F), but with addition of suitable fire retardants material made up of category B with very low flame spread.

Foamed extruded polystyrene is an odorless material, usually blue or light green, with excellent heat-insulating properties, superior compared to expanded polystyrene, but with higher cost of purchase.

photo source: greenbuildingadvisor.com

Mineral wool

A very popular material, natural mineral wool, is one of the most economical options and has a thermal conductivity in the region of 0.036 W/mK.

The fibrous insulation materials get the best fire proof credentials – they just won’t burn! This is one of the reasons why it is often chosen in  residential homes and commercial multi-storey buildings. Considered to be a bit more difficult to apply because it is difficult to cut and some people feel itchy when they come in contact with the material. It must also be kept dry during installation. If it gets wet, its performance will return as soon as it dries completely.

Mineral wool products have little resistance to water vapor diffusion. The diffused water vapor easily penetrates the insulation material. Mineral wool is fully breathable, any moisture/water vapour in the structure can pass to the exterior surface unobstructed. The high breathability of the material favors the elimination of possible condensation moisture by evaporation. After evaporation the material returns to its original condition without changing its properties. But be careful, breathability is only maintained if the finish is itself breathable. It is also an excellent soundproofing material.

It is available in the market in rolls, batts, boards or it can be customized for use with other products.

photo source: passivehouseplus.ie

Phenolic foam – PF

Phenolic insulation is a rigid foam insulation with a closed cell structure. It is among the most expensive heat insulating materials but also with the best performance, with a thermal conductivity of 0.021 W / mK. The coefficient of thermal conductivity, however, depends significantly on the thickness of the material and the coating material.

The exceptionally low thermal conductivity of closed cell phenolic foam boards means that appropriate insulation efficiency can be achieved with the thinnest possible profile of PF material. Sometimes, it is the only viable option. For example, in narrow passages between houses, a thin profile of phenolic foam can provide the required U value without rendering the passage unusable. Similarly, one of the many building elements you have to consider on renovations is the roof overhang. A thinner insulation profile may obviate the need to extend that overhang.

Phenolic insulation has excellent moisture resistance as a result of low water vapor permeability and 90% closed cell structure. It exhibits very good resistance to compression and can be used for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces such as roofing, flooring and cavity walls. It must be kept dry during installation. Due to its closed cell structure and coating with waterproof materials it is practically waterproof, does not absorb moisture and does not retain significant amounts of water. If it absorbs moisture on its surface it is not carried inside.

Also, it is fireproof. In case of fire it combines zero or very low flame spread with negligible smoke emission and a very low level of toxic gas emission. The product has excellent sound-insulating properties and is available in pipe sections, blocks, rolls and slabs. It is generally available from 20mm to 50mm thickness, though it is possible to double up. In this case, you must trust trained, certified fitters to  install it. Some fitters say that this material tends to require thicker bases and additional connections than other insulation materials, resulting in increased costs.

photo source: archiexpo.com

Wood fibre

Wood fibers are considered as an ecological heat insulating material. With a thermal conductivity in the region of 0.039 W/mK. However, you do need more of it to deliver equivalent thermal performance. It is fully breathable when used in conjunction with the right finishes and adhesives and is more commonly found on timber frame structures. Although, it’s a little more expensive than mineral wool.

The fibrous structure of the wood allows it to accumulate and store warmth during the day, and then release it at night when the temperature drops, delaying the occurrence of condensation on the surface and thereby making the finished render less susceptible to mould and algae growth.

It has excellent sound insulation properties and is fire resistant with very slow spreading of the fire.  It is also widely used as internal insulation for sound insulation in conservatories, theaters, cinemas, recording studios and mass entertainment venues.

Wood fiber insulation is available as loose fill, flexible batts and rigid panels for all thermal and sound insulation uses.

Getting the right installer

When it comes to installing or upgrading home insulation, it’s best to hire a professional insulation contractor. Proper installation is essential for insulation to perform properly. Knowledge of vapor retarders, air infiltration, ventilation, recessed lighting, and water pipes are just a few of the areas critical to installation techniques. Professional insulation contractors have access to a wide variety of training, are familiar with local codes and regulations, and can offer guidance about the type and amount of insulation to be used. Poor workmanship, poor detailing and poor planning can end up damaging the structure, and seriously compromising indoor air quality.

Once you have chosen an insulation contractor, make sure the contract includes the job specification, cost, method of payment, and warranty information provided by the insulation material manufacturer. When the job is completed the contractor ought to give you a receipt for the insulation installed. This is required by law.

It is important to note that the contract you will sign should list the type of insulation to be used with R-value and where it will be used. Make sure that each type of insulation is listed. Avoid contracts with vague language such as R-values with the terms “plus or minus”; “+ or -“; “average”; or “nominal.” Beware of any contract or verbal offering that quotes the job in terms of thickness only (e.g. “14 inches of insulation”). Remember, it is the R-value — not the thickness — that tells how well a material insulates. When buying insulation, be sure not to get sidetracked by the thickness of the material.

The functionality of the building is guaranteed through the harmonized planning and installation. All the technical rules should therefore have already been taken into consideration at the planning stage. These are important prerequisites for a perfect job.

But it is not only money you are saving by choosing energy-efficient glass for your windows, you also reduce your home’s CO2 output, making it’s carbon footprint smaller and more environmentally friendly.

So, what is low-e glass? In this article, we provide you with an in-depth overview of Low-emissivity (or Low-e) glass and their coatings.

What is low-e glass, and is it right for your home? To help you decide, this article discusses what homeowners should know before investing in new windows.

What is Low-e glass?

Low-emissivity or low-e glass is a type of energy-efficient glass that is designed to prevent heat from escaping to the cold outside environment through your windows. Low-e glass has a thin, transparent coating of tiny metal oxide layers that drastically reduces heat transfer and reflects the internal heat back into your room.

The coating is not visible to the naked eye, allowing as much natural light as possible to enter the house. However, even if it is transparent, this coating protects your home from unwanted UV rays (UV rays) that can harm your skin, fade your carpets and wall coverings and damage your furniture. In addition, it helps control the radiant heat (infrared light) that enters and exits a room. In other words, it keeps your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. This saves money by reducing heating and cooling bills, while creating a comfortable living environment.

low-e coating on glass surfaces keeps your home’s interior warmer in cooler months and cooler in warmer months

In order to understand how low-e glass works, we can compare it with a thermos. Both function in the same way. A thermos has a silver lining, which reflects the temperature of the drink it contains. The temperature is maintained because of the constant reflection that occurs, as well as the insulating benefits that the air space provides between the inner and outer shells of the thermos, similar to an insulating glass unit. Low-e glass works the same way since it is comprised of extremely thin layers of silver or other low emissivity materials. The silver low-e coating reflects the interior temperatures back inside, keeping the room warm or cold.

Low-e glass is essential for rooms or buildings with a high proportion of windows or glass doors, such as living rooms, offices and sun rooms. The use of low-e glazing helps to retain heat even in winter, allowing you to comfortably use these rooms for more months of the year. Low-e glass is also recommended for north or east facing windows, where a larger proportion of heat loss is expected. For south and west facing glazing where overheating can become a problem in the summer months, it is recommended to use solar control low-e glass.

What about summer?

Low-e glass windows not only keep the heat in during winter, they can also reflect it back out during summer. They literally pick out and refuse entry to certain portions of the light spectrum. Therefore, they allow less infrared light (radiant heat) to enter the house, keeping it cooler during the summer months  thus reducing operating costs related to air conditioning.

Low-e coating types 

There are actually two different types of low-e coatings: passive low-e coatings and solar control low-e coatings. Passive low-e coatings are designed to maximize the solar heat gain of a home or building creating a passive heating effect and thus reducing reliance on artificial heating. Solar control low-e coatings are designed to limit the amount of solar heat passing through them thus keeping buildings cooler and reducing energy consumption related to air conditioning.

Where is it?

The metallic oxide layer is applied to a few different areas. If it is a soft coating, it will be on the inner surface of the glass. Soft coatings are actually very efficient in their reflex capabilities, making the windows energy efficient at a very high rate. However they can’t operate under extreme physical conditions so they have to be placed on the inside of the glass. Hard coatings are less efficient but can withstand weather conditions and are therefore usually located on the outside of the windows. However, the most common area of ​​application is between the two glass surfaces of a double-glazed window. It is not actually a coating but a thin sheet suspended in the middle of the glass panes. So it works not only as a low emission window, but also as a form of thermal insulation against airflow and heat loss. In other words, this sheet can effectively convert a double glazing into a triple glazing and this insulation can be further supplemented by the addition of inert argon gas for even higher R-value. The glaze acting as an insulator, it traps the warmth in a building, reduces energy bills and keeps the glass constantly warm, which reduces condensation buildup on icy days of the year.

Who do i ask?

Low-e windows are definitely worth the investment. They almost come standard now, but if you’re remodeling an older house, these glazes can save you a lot of money.

You may have the option of replacing the windows in their existing frame; discuss this option with your window retailer and installer to find out if it will work for you. Many older double glazed units do not contain low-emissivity glass and are therefore not energy-efficient. By replacing your existing window glass with low-e glazing, you can improve the energy efficiency of your home, reduce your monthly bills and decrease the size of your carbon footprint. Low-e glazing units can make your home more than twice as energy-efficient in comparison to older double glazing with no low-e coating.

There are all kinds of efficiency codes and they all vary depending upon your particular environment. So as you investigate low-e glass window coatings and films, you’ll definitely want to hire a professional who can not only install the new units but can also give you advice about which models will work best for your specific area in terms of durability, application, location, strength, and overall efficacy.

Selection process

In colder climates, consider selecting glass with passive low-e coatings to reduce heat loss. In warmer climates, select glass with solar control low-e coatings to reduce heat gain.

In addition to choosing the window type, you also need to consider labeling, warranties and proper installation.

First look for the energy certificate with indicators and classifications when buying new windows. Glazing that carry the Certified Passive House Component seal has been tested according to uniform criteria; they are comparable in terms of their specific values, and are of excellent quality regarding energy efficiency.

Even the most energy-efficient glass must be properly installed to ensure energy efficiency and comfort. Have your windows installed by trained professionals according to manufacturer’s instructions; otherwise, your warranty may be void.